A Chanukah cookbook

NEW YORK, Oct. 9 (JTA) — “The sizzle of latkes in the kitchen, the glow of Chanukah candles in the window, the sounds of children playing with dreidels,” these are what most of us associate with Chanukah celebrations, says Linda Burghardt, the author of “Jewish Holiday Traditions.” However, Burghardt also believes Chanukah is a story with many faces. It’s about jolly songs, games and gifts; donuts and pancakes; miracles and military battles; and the triumph of light over darkness. The Maccabe’s victory offers lessons that continue to resonate in the 21st century. In 175 B.C.E., the Greek king Antiochus ascended to the Syrian throne, ordering the Israelites to adopt Greek religion and culture. He outlawed kosher strictures and Shabbat observance. Although the Jews were miserable, things went too far when a Greek officer ordered Mattathias, a respected elder, to slaughter a pig and partake in it. Mattathias not only refused, but slew the officer, sparking a rebellion. He and his five sons, known to this day as the Maccabees, fled to the desert and surrounding hills to launch guerilla attacks against the Greeks. After three years of fighting, the Israelites prevailed and recaptured the sacred city of Jerusalem. Entering the holy temple, they discovered a shrine to Zeus and sacrificial pigs on the altar. They immediately destroyed statues of Greek gods and scrubbed the temple clean. But when they attempted to rekindle the eternal light, there was only enough purified oil to last 24 hours. This was upsetting since it took eight days to produce. Yet miraculously, the oil on hand lasted until a new batch was purified. People celebrated their good fortune with an eight-day festival that evolved into modern-day Chanukah. “What happened in ancient times relates to what’s happening in the world today,” says Burghardt, referring to the aftermath of Sept. 11 and the crisis in Israel with the Palestinians. The Chanukah story raises issues such as the relationship of people from disparate cultures, respect for religious differences, freedom and independence, distribution of power and the age-old debate over when violence and war are justified. “One thing I like about Chanukah is that you can’t fake it,” Burghardt says. “Chanukah lasts too long, so if you don’t mean what you’re saying about freedom, justice and human dignity, you can’t sustain the charade for eight days.” In the Chanukah story, Burghardt perceives tikkum olam, the idea that as Jews our role is to try to repair the world. She suggests encouraging children not only to receive gifts but to give them to less fortunate people or to volunteer at soup kitchens or nursing homes. “While repairing the world, we need energy,” she says with a chuckle. “And energy comes from food.” Burghardt, a freelance writer, set out to compose the book she longed for as a bride, one that not only included foolproof recipes, but conveyed how Jewish history is connected to holiday celebrations. Her book encourages people who want to learn more about Judaism. “Here’s a place to start and that’s fine,” she says, believing in Dr. Spock’s advice to new parents: “You know more than you think you know.” “I began with the idea of food,” she says, explaining that her book’s concept grew from there. Burghardt questioned: “Why are you eating this? What does it mean? In the case of Chanukah, people fry pancakes and other goodies in cooking oil to honor the bit of lamp oil that stretched for eight days.” Once Burghardt understood what various holiday foods symbolize, she moved to considerations of how to welcome guests into your home, how to bring friends into your family circle, and how to create celebrations that are warm in uniquely Jewish ways. Chanukah in particular is one of Burghardt’s favorite holidays, as close to her heart as her husband and identical twin daughters. The book’s dedication reads: “To David, Amy, and Katie . . . with love, laughter and latkes.” “The more latkes you make, the better they get,” says Burghardt, who admits she’s not a great cook, which is why her recipes convey every step to readers, short of reminding them to keep breathing. Burghardt’s Chanukah celebrations are full of special touches, large and small. “In our house, we each have our own menorahs,” she says, explaining that her husband’s menorah arrived as a wedding present. Amy and Katie’s were Bat Mitzvah gifts and Burghardt made hers in a pottery class. The Burghardt family places their menorahs on the dining table. “The light from four candelabras casts a glow that’s really intense.” On top of that, this multi-menorah tradition avoided arguments over who would light the candles, when her daughters were young. Because Chanukah is eight days long, it’s an easy holiday for entertaining. “It’s possible to find time for get-togethers, because you always have a weekend,” Burghardt says. She loves the fact that this year Chanukah falls the day after Thanksgiving because her daughters, now in college, will be there to share the festivities. Although Burghardt enjoys throwing Chanukah parties, she also appreciates quiet nights at home. After the Chanukah candles are lit, her family does not work or watch television. They may spin a dreidel or actually talk to each other. Burghardt feels Jewish holidays are about taking time from your life, remembering the past, sharing a scrumptious meal and being together as a family. Slowing down for 20 minutes to notice the candles is what makes those twinkling lights so special.RECIPES: “From Jewish Holiday Traditions” by Linda BurghardtCLASSIC POTATO LATKESQuick Tips: Use fresh potatoes, fry potatoes as soon as grated to prevent them from turning brown, don´t overuse oil, and drain pancakes well. Remember that different oils impart specific flavors, so let your taste be your guide.8 medium russet or Idaho potatoes2 onions3 Tbsp. oil2 large eggs1/2 cup matzah meal or 1/4 cup flour2 tsp. salt1/2 tsp. baking powder2 cups applesauce (see recipe below)8 ounces sour cream1. Wash potatoes thoroughly and peel them (or leave skins on for a slightly earthy flavor), then grate them by hand on the coarsest side of the grater or in a food processor with a medium-blade grater.2. Put grated potatoes in a sieve and let sit for 5-10 minutes until the water starts to separate out, then squeeze out as much liquid as possible.3. Turn potatoes into a large bowl.4. Peel and dice onions, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a skillet, and lightly saute onions in oil.5. Beat eggs.6. Add onions to potato mixture, along with eggs, matzah meal, salt and baking powder. Mix well.7. Heat skillet and cover bottom with remaining oil, then drop tablespoons of batter into it.8. Flatten batter with a spatula.9. Turn when edges start to brown.10. When done, drain on brown paper grocery bags or paper towels.11. Serve with applesauce and sour cream.Yield: about 18 latkesPINK APPLESAUCEThere´s nothing like the contrast between warm, crunchy latkes and cold applesauce with its smooth texture. Some cooks prefer golden delicious apples, others use only grannysmiths or russets. You can experiment with single types or mix and match for a pleasing variety of flavors and textures.7-8 medium apples1/2 cup water2 Tbsp. lemon juice2 Tbsp. orange juice1/2 tsp. vanilla1/4 cup honey1 tsp. red food coloring1. Peel, core and slice apples and place in a saucepan.2. Add water, lemon juice, orange juice and vanilla.3. Cover and bring to a boil. Cook over low heat until soft, about 25 minutes, adding more water if needed.4. Mix in honey.5. Stir in food coloring, which will turn applesauce an appetizing pink.6. To make texture finer when cooking is done, put mixture in a food processor and puree, or serve as is.Yield: 1 quart, or 6-8 servingsSUFGANIYOT (ISRAELI JELLY DONUTS)Sufganiyot can be complicated to make, but even novices will master the technique after a couple of tries, if someone at home volunteers to eat up the mistakes! Try a variety of jams for the filling.2 packages of active dry yeast31/2 cups flour1/4 cup granulated sugar1/2 cup warm water1/2 cup milk1/2 tsp. salt1/2 cup butter2 large eggs1 large jar raspberry jamOil for fryingPowdered sugar1. Dissolve yeast in warm water.2. In a large bowl, mix together half the flour, sugar, yeast, water, milk and salt.3. Stir in butter and add eggs.4. With an electric beater, mix batter until smooth.5. Add remaining flour and knead by hand.6. Cover bowl with a dish towel and let dough rise in a warm place for about an hour, until doubled in bulk.7. Knead dough for a minute or two on a lightly floured surface.8. Let it rest for about 10 minutes, then roll it out to 1/2-inch thickness on a floured surface.9. Use a round 2-inch diameter cookie cutter to cut out circles.10. Place a tablespoon of jam on every other circle and cover with another circle of dough. Pinch the sides together all the way around. 11. Cover with a dish towel and let rise for about one hour, until doubled in size.12. Pour about 2 inches of oil into a heavy skillet and heat until it shimmers.13. Gently place a few of the doughnuts into the oil and fry, turning once, about 1-2 minutes per side.14. When done, remove from skillet and drain on paper towels. Sprinkle generously with powdered sugar.Yield: About 18 donuts